The Accutron, The cool that never was.

Even though I’ve been doing this trade for quite sometime, I keep learning about the many ways that have been invented to do basically the same thing, give us the time. The race in the past was to come up with the best and most accurate way of doing this. The history of timekeeping is a vast and very interesting one that really came to a pinnacle when quartz technology hit the market. This is the moment when innovators and scientists seeking accurate time technologies, simply dusted their hands and looked towards other mountains to climb because quartz regulation simply destroys all other forms of timekeeping. But there was a brief moment before this “quartz revolution” when many different and new innovations were flooding the market. One of them is the tuning fork.

The bulova 2180. She’s a beauty

This is the story of my journey with the Accutron and the tuning fork technology. Now, I’m not going to give you a history lesson on this technology but if you’re interested there are many resources out there. Check this one out. It was only produced for a few years in the 60s and quickly fell into obscurity in the 70s. The frequency of the tuning fork sits around 300hz (depending on the model) and this was far superior to the modest 5hz (give or take) that the Swiss lever escapement gives. Of course this pales in comparison to quartz, which runs at a blistering 32,768hz!! Now who can compete with that? Not the tuning fork apparently.

Omegas answer to the tuning fork. The Omega F300HZ

Today, the Swiss lever escapement has strangely survived the quartz era and is seen in most of the current mechanical watches on the market. Brands like Rolex, Seiko, most of the Swatch group and Richmont group brands, and many others use some form of it. What is interesting is that no one has taken up the baton to use tuning fork technology in modern times. Why has the Swiss lever seen such success but the tuning fork has drifted away? To be found only in the nostalgic hearts of us watch enthusiasts. In watchmaking school, the subject was barely explored and when I took on the task of learning how to service them, it was a lonely place and finding experts and technical assistance was challenging. But once I got some questions answered and some guidance and experience, I’ve found these watches and this technology pretty fricken cool and exciting.

It’s always about the regulator. From the pendulum to the quartz crystal, this is the thing that vibrates and is measured and translated into timekeeping. The regulator of the Bulova Accutron and the Omega F300 is the tuning fork. As it vibrates back and forth at 300hz it pushes two very small jewels on the end of two very tiny rods to advance a wheel with 300 very tiny teeth to rotate once a second. This drives the gear train and thus the time. Simple right? (wink)

My stereo microscope. game changer!
The coil and component assembly for the original bulova 214.

The first tool I bought so that I could work on these was my stereo microscope. This was a game changer as I am now able to see the indexing mechanism clearly and make the necessary adjustments. I usually use a 5times loope for my watch servicing but this microscope gives me 45 times magnification. Honestly, it feels like cheating and now I use it often on many of my other jobs. Now that I understand how this technology works and how to make adjustments, servicing the rest of the movement is like all the other jobs I take on. The cleaning, adjusting, proper lubrication, regulating etc, is like a walk in the park. It’s finding parts that is tricky. I have built a contact base of parts supply houses and other watchmakers who have some of these parts but they are often very expensive. I’d love to see someone come up with a new version of this. It sure would make finding parts easier if they could make them new again. If the Swiss lever can survive, I bet the tuning fork could capture the imagination of the watch lover and be the next obsession for collectors.

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Tudor Prince Oysterdate (ref 9050/0)

Victoria watch repair Tudor Prince Oysterdate closeup
Vancouver watch repair Tudor Prince Oysterdate on the bench

Once again I find myself swooning over a watch that for me, just checks all the boxes. This Tudor Prince Oysterdate does just that. It’s the perfect size at 34mm, it’s understated, funky yet classy and has historical and horological significance.

Tudor was first created by Rolex in the 50’s to offer a more working class option for people wanting the brand recognition and style of Rolex but not wanting to fork over too much cash. The cases and bracelets on Rolex and Tudor watches are almost interchangeable as well as the quality of the dials and hands. The big difference is the movements, which on Rolexes, starting from that time, were made in-house, whereas the Tudor watches used ETA and sometimes AS movements. These are great movements that have stood the test of time but the quality is a little more industrial and a little less elegant.

Vancouver watch repair Tudor movement
ETA 2784

The service went well and it was apparent by how dry the movement was, that it had been quite a while since it had seen another watchmakers touch. The movement is an ETA 2784 which is the older cousin to the famous ETA 2824. It is also a high beat movement ticking away at 28,800 bpms. The little differences are in the setting mechanism and the calendar works which have noticeably been upgraded to a more “watchmaker friendly” set-up. The 2824 has fewer little springs to deal with that sometimes find their way into the abyss…

The bracelet is a beautiful folded linked Oyster dating from the late 1960’s. You can read about this interesting history of these bracelets in this nice article from Hodinkee.

Vancouver watch repair worn oyster bracelet
note the worn parts of the bracelet on the left versus the undamaged links on the right

I would’ve loved to have polished the case and bracelet up but I didn’t upon the request from the customer. This one definitely shows its age but I can understand wanting to keep those memories intact. When I was reassembling the bracelet, I realized that I hadn’t recorded the exact size that the bracelet was set. This was an easy problem to solve as the worn out parts of the bracelet were exposed leaving the untouched parts underneath the clasp. This made it easy to determine the original sizing.

Vancouver watch repair Tudor Prince Oysterdate on the wrist

Omega Railmaster CK 2914-1

Omega railmaster CK-2914-1 Victoria watch repair

Now where to begin with this one? As a watchmaker, there are times when I feel this little tingle of joy when a rare and valuable watch comes across my desk. I also feel grateful to the owners of these treasured objects for entrusting me to give their watches the care that is needed.

This puppy is a family heirloom and checked all the boxes for me. I dream of owning many watches, many that are way out of my budget, and this one is on the top of that pile. Oh the stories they could tell. If you want to learn more about this reference, check out this similar watch that was featured on A Collected Man

omega railmaster movement 284 watch repair vancouver

The watch was no longer winding and the crystal was quite scratched. I opened her up and discovered no evidence that the watch had ever been serviced. Watches of this vintage, usually have service marks scratched on the inside of the case-back. The markings rarely give any real information, sometimes a date, but usually it’s just a signature of sorts. There were no such markings, and the movement was almost brand new, except for the dried out lubricant and dirt that had collected over time. I was confident that once I popped in a new main-spring and serviced the movement, it would work great without the need for any serious repairs or adjustment. I was right, once I cleaned it up and put all the parts in place, It came alive like Encino-man. I cased her up, polished up the crystal, and that was that.

Omega CK1914-1 uncased Watch repair vancouver

A highlight for me was the opportunity I had to make a custom leather strap for it. The owner wanted a fresh vibe and called on my leather crafting skills to add some vintage spirit. We decided the veg-tan with matching brown stitching would be the right fit. I think it turned out pretty nice. Over time, this strap will get that sweet sweet patina.

Sometimes, when I have to give back such a great watch, this song goes through my head.

omega railmaster new leather strap watch repair vancouver

Gallet Excel-O-Graph Chronograph (EP 40-68)

Watch repair Victoria Excel-o-graph

This beauty came across my bench like a celebrity sighting of Scarlett Johansson. As a watchmaker and a watch lover, it’s hard not to get a little flush when in the presence of such a gorgeous watch. The owner of this watch has such an amazing collection of Gallets (among other awesome brands) that I affectionately call him “The Gallet Guy”.

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Waltham- Early 20th century pocket watch

watch repair Victoria waltham pocket watch

This guy came across my bench with a mangled hairspring. I also found the impulse jewel to be broken off and missing. So I replaced the spring and fit a new jewel. Fitting the jewel was fun as I needed to shellac the jewel on the impulse plate. Always fun to use my staking set as well. Watching these old guys come back to life is very rewarding. The stories they could tell.

Which watches does a watchmaker collect? (say that 5 times)

I often get asked by people, as a watchmaker, what watches do I collect and why. We all love to talk about our watches, so I thought I’d take this as an opportunity to go in depth and talk about the watches in my very own collection. I wanted to talk about these 10 watches, how I chose them and why they’re important to me. So sit back, grab a coffee and have a go. Click on the watch you’d like to read and about, and please, let me know what you think. Happy reading!

Watch #9 – My Memosail Chronograph

memosail watch regatta timer rusty pipe

This watch is now up for sale. Come visit my For Sale page for more info

It’s no secret that I love chronographs. It’s the one complication that I just can’t get enough of. There are countless variants and approaches and I love the beauty and complexity of the differing systems of levers and springs. I’m amazed at how many different styles and types of chronographs are out there. All doing a similar function of timing something. Column wheels and vertical clutches, cam systems and automatic integration. It’s poetry really.

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Watch #7- My Omega Cosmic

This 1969 Omega Cosmic is the watch I wore when I got married two summers ago. Now, being a watchmaker, the choice of which watch to wear for such an important day comes with an added pressure. It’s gotta be technically advanced and socially interesting. It has to have some of my own DNA in it as well as a fresh perspective. It needs to look amazing and it needs a good story. Check!

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