Longines 17N pocket watch

I’m often asked, What made you want to be a watchmaker? I enjoy being the oddball sometimes. I get to exist in this niche place that raises a few inquisitive eyebrows once in a while. I think it’s pretty obvious why, I mean, look at these toys I get to play with all day. These conversation often continue with an anecdote or two about an old family watch or some reference to some youtube video featuring a watch being taken apart. I do think it’s unique way to connect to people. I could talk all day about it.

I’m excited to write about this incredible Longines Pocket watch. Historically speaking this isn’t the most unique watch or the fanciest. But as a watchmaker and appreciator, this watch enthusiastically checks off all the boxes.

The first thing you may notice on a watch movement is the finishing. Some have a noticeable level of craftsmanship and others just get by. The finishing on this Longines 17L is just fantastic. The bevelled edges on the bridges. The brushed finishing along with the high polished contrasts. The black polish on the screws and balance regulator. Then there’s underneath the dial. Why would anyone finish the dial side of a movment when nobody will ever see it? (except us watchnmakers) This watch, as the example, has perlage finishing under the dial and even the setting mechanism and bridges have high polish and bevelled edges too.

Then there’s the science behind the movement. The breguet overcoil on the hairspring, and the temperature compensated balance. You can read about why it’s important here. There’s the gold jewel settings and the center wheel jewel. All indicators of a very high quality movement. Servicing this watch was a treat. It’s owner (whom happens to be a close friend’s relative) had kept it in good condition so there was little repair needed. Just a couple of end-shake adjustments and a good cleaning and regulating.

Longines (of the past), is one of my favourite watch houses. They have an amazing and important horological history and some of their movement contributions are outstanding. I am especially fond of the military chronographs like the 13ZN. I believe they wrote the book on chronograph finishing that companies like A, Lange and Sohne have taken the baton from. These early wrist watch chronographs from the 30s and 40s are very sought after and very expensive. This is where the Longines 17N is different. There are many examples available and at an incredibly reasonable price. I am actually very surprised how affordable they are considering the level of watchmaking that exists within them. Perhaps the demand has yet to catch up or they may be a well kept secret. It could be that Longines was able to manufacture them in large quantities and the supply and demand keeps the price low. In any case, if you are thinking about getting a pocket watch and joining the family of collectors and appreciators, then I would highly recommend getting yourself one of these bad boys.