The Tale of Two Speedys

Of course, like many watchmakers, I’ve serviced a few Omega Speedmaster Professionals over the years. I can say that it is always a treat. There are few watches that we can all collectively agree upon, have had such profound influence in watch history and collecting. I think every serious collector has at least one reference in their own collection (even the “Moonswatch” counts… sort of). This week I had the chance to work on two virtually identical Speedmasters. Both had a 77 million serial number which dates them both to 2005. This was a good year for the Speedmaster as it seems that they made over 5 million that year. So I guess it’s not that improbable that I would have two from that year.

The Speedmaster has a great origin story which I’d recommend reading about. The watch hasn’t changed very much since it went to the moon but it had a few faces and case designs before the “Professional”, as we know it, was created. Read about it here. These watches aren’t cheap and they never will be. As I keeping save up for one, the cost keeps going up. Feels kinda like a dog chasing his tail. Good thing I can service them. This way I have a deeper connection than even the owners have.

On to the watches. Both were in quite different condition. One needed quite a bit of adjusting. It had lots of end shake issues, worn bearings and needed a new bezel and crystal. The other had simply a broken mainspring and minimal wear. According to their owners, both had never been serviced so this is where I joined their stories. The 1861 movements were both in great cosmetic shape. The screw heads on both appeared untouched. This is pleasing, as it is the goal of every watchmaker (or should be) to leave no evidence of being inside a watch even after service. Leaving the screw heads pristine is a qualifier to identify those watchmakers who truly respect the craft, and those who just go through the motions.. These watchmakers may leave other parts of the watch different from how they were found. It’s really as easy as keeping your screwdrivers sharp.

Even though these watches are the exact same reference (145.0022) the only difference I noticed was the Omega logo on the chronograph runner bridge. The placement of the word “Omega” and grain were slightly different between the two. This tells me that the engraving machine had either been changed or adjusted during production.

Most likely is that they had several machines working in production that year. 5 million watches is a lot for one machine to handle and each may be adjusted differently. Sometimes you see these little variations even among the same reference. This makes the art of identifying counterfeit watches tricky. There may be something documented on this at the omega archives but that’s a really deep dive.

After service I had to take the opportunity to take a bunch of photos of the watches together. They may have met in the factory back in 2005 and probably had some catching up to do.

Longines 17N pocket watch

victoria watch repair Longines pocket watch

I’m often asked, What made you want to be a watchmaker? I enjoy being the oddball sometimes. I get to exist in this niche place that raises a few inquisitive eyebrows once in a while. I think it’s pretty obvious why, I mean, look at these toys I get to play with all day. These conversation often continue with an anecdote or two about an old family watch or some reference to some youtube video featuring a watch being taken apart. I do think it’s unique way to connect to people. I could talk all day about it.

Victoria watch repair Longines pocket watch
simple and elegant, function and beauty

I’m excited to write about this incredible Longines Pocket watch. Historically speaking this isn’t the most unique watch or the fanciest. But as a watchmaker and appreciator, this watch enthusiastically checks off all the boxes.

The first thing you may notice on a watch movement is the finishing. Some have a noticeable level of craftsmanship and others just get by. The finishing on this Longines 17L is just fantastic. The bevelled edges on the bridges. The brushed finishing along with the high polished contrasts. The black polish on the screws and balance regulator. Then there’s underneath the dial. Why would anyone finish the dial side of a movment when nobody will ever see it? (except us watchnmakers) This watch, as the example, has perlage finishing under the dial and even the setting mechanism and bridges have high polish and bevelled edges too.

Victoria watch repair Longines pocket watch movement
The barrel and gear train. Each part expertly hand crafted
Victoria watch repair Longines pocket watch dial side
Note the perlage. All done by hand. Nobody but the watchmaker see this!

Then there’s the science behind the movement. The breguet overcoil on the hairspring, and the temperature compensated balance. You can read about why it’s important here. There’s the gold jewel settings and the center wheel jewel. All indicators of a very high quality movement. Servicing this watch was a treat. It’s owner (whom happens to be a close friend’s relative) had kept it in good condition so there was little repair needed. Just a couple of end-shake adjustments and a good cleaning and regulating.

victoria watch repair pocket watch
gorgeous finishing on this bridge.

Longines (of the past), is one of my favourite watch houses. They have an amazing and important horological history and some of their movement contributions are outstanding. I am especially fond of the military chronographs like the 13ZN. I believe they wrote the book on chronograph finishing that companies like A, Lange and Sohne have taken the baton from. These early wrist watch chronographs from the 30s and 40s are very sought after and very expensive. This is where the Longines 17N is different. There are many examples available and at an incredibly reasonable price. I am actually very surprised how affordable they are considering the level of watchmaking that exists within them. Perhaps the demand has yet to catch up or they may be a well kept secret. It could be that Longines was able to manufacture them in large quantities and the supply and demand keeps the price low. In any case, if you are thinking about getting a pocket watch and joining the family of collectors and appreciators, then I would highly recommend getting yourself one of these bad boys.

Victoria watch repair Longines pocket watch movement
Freshly serviced and ready to close. One last look.